Getting to Tetebatu, a village on the lower slopes of a volcano, was a lovely relief from the heat and crowds of the towns: beautiful rice paddies, tobacco fields, the rain forest, and only four other tourists made it feel a little bit off the beaten track. The kids in the village rushed along the roads to say hello to us strange looking things (at least to Tara, looking so different!). We spent two days here exploring the village and visiting the forest where there were black monkeys with incredibly long tails playing high up in the trees, and a beautiful waterfall to swim under (bathing under the falls there is supposed to promote hair growth!). Spending a couple of hours relaxing there, in the mist from the waterfall was wonderful. There was a lovely local guy (Emmy) in the village who, as well as feeding us fantastic food, helped us with information to get local transport to Sumbawa (getting reliable information about local transport felt like a miracle - up until then we'd only been able to get people to tell us about private transport at highly elevated prices!). With painful bargaining, we made our way to Sumbawa Island.