|David wasn't there at 4:30am (maybe he overslept), but at least we got an early start: it took four por puestos and 14 hours to get from Guiria to Caripe (and they really aren't that far apart!), and Da was so traumatized by the journey that he decided we should stay in Caripe in our nice hotel with hot showers for his birthday, rather than risk trying to get to somewhere new! Caripe is a friendly (the guys were VERY friendly to Tara!) small town, nestled in a valley between lovely forest-covered mountains. It is also near the Cueva del Guacharo, which is why we went there to start with. The caves were very impressive: 10.2km long (we only visited 1200m of them tho!), with enormous stalyctites and stalycmites, and thouands of guacharos (oil birds, which are brown and noisy, navigate like bats, and have whiskers!). We stayed until after dark to watch them leaving the cave, except that it was dark, so we couldn't see much! Then we realised that all the taxis had left, and we were two hours along a very dark road away from our hotel. Luckily a nice pick-up truck gave us a lift a lot of the way, and dropped us off by the huge guacharo statue that we'd somehow missed before! The next day, we went exploring to find somewhere to celebrate Da's birthday - and found a lovely mountainside restaraunt, with beautiful views over the valley. Unfortunately, the steak that Da ate there made him very sick, and he spent the evening of his birthday, and the next two days feeling very sorry for himself (and watching cable!).