We decided to take the tourist bus to Tayrona national park - we figured it would be quicker and less hassle... until we saw the 'bus' which turned out to be a 30 year old taxi car that drove at a maximum of 20km/h and stopped every ten minutes for oil(!). Two hours later (a 35km journey!!) we got to the entrance and started our walk through the forest trail to Arrecifes. We decided to stay at the campsite on Arrecifes beach (after visiting a few!): it was relatively cheap, and we could string our hammocks where we could see the sea. After a bit of a hammock snooze (it's very tiring looking for a place to sleep in paradise you know!) and a fresh juice, we went for a wander along the beach. The beach is soo gorgeous, and easily the most beautiful we have seen (although it has competition from the river beaches in the middle of the Amazon). The offshore currents at Arrecifes have killed more than 200 people tho, so no swimming there! A short walk along the coast (or through the forest) tho lead to a natural swimming pool that was lovely. We had a swim there, relaxed enjoying the sunshine and came back for dinner. It's been the first beach that we walked on without threat of danger at night (and we are in Colombia!!). Luckily we were there for full moon and the reflection in the water, the swaying shadowy palmtrees and the musical sound of the waves hitting the shore made it magical. We stayed longer than planned - there are a lot of beaches and places to explore, and it's not an easy place to leave! We spent the next couple of days jogging to the distant beaches (as we are getting a bit lazy!) and about an hour away we found a lovely nudist beach (no we don't have any pictures!). We also visited the Pueblito (an ancient village, similar to Ciudad Perdido, but smaller, where indigienous families still live). The walk there was fantastic (but all uphill!): old stepping stones that led high into the mountains, under huge rocks, past gorgeous, massive trees and over streams. It took us about 50 minutes to get to the lovely village that seemed lost in the mountains, and where the villagers thankfully sold water!! We had a stroll around and made our way back to the natural swimming pool where we got in the water very quickly after jogging our way down the mountain! Arrecifes is a very special place - one that you never want to leave. With plans to go diving tho, we forced ourselves to head back to Santa Marta.