We liked Baños lots, and knew we would from the moment we saw the volcano out of the bus window! Sure, it's touristy, but its also stunningly beautiful and has VERY hot hot spring pools at the base of a waterfall (which we went to every day we were here!). As well as bathing in hot springs, we rented a quad bike for an afternoon's exploring, spent lots of time looking at the volcano (which Da nicknamed 'fluffy'!) from different view points (no lava, reassuringly, just lots of smoke!), and spent a day cycling the waterfall route to visit lots of waterfalls(!), zip back and forth across the valley in little cages, and throw ourselves off bridges on rope swings (ok, Da didn't do that bit, but Tara loved it!).