Nov 21, 2011 - Three Cups of Tea

Knowing that part of this book were fabrications, but not exactly knowing which parts, I had a hard time enjoying the book. I felt the entire story was tainted. I found the kidnapping story unbelievable and wasn't surprised to find that that part was a lie. I also felt his "defense," (where he blamed the inaccuracies on his co-author) especially distasteful. Did he not read it before it was published? Surely he could have stopped the lies at that point had he wanted! I do however agree with a few things he says: "Once you educate the...

Oct 22, 2008 - Lahore

Up early - confusion as to 'old time' and 'new time' a difference of one hour(daylite saving in new, ha!)made our visit to Ashoke Rocks a bit chaotic. The taxi was supposed to take us to the rocks first then bus station but instead took us directly to bus. We were told it was leaving at 9(by new time we're there at 8:30), so Mari was bummed until the fellow selling tickets arranged a taxi to the Rocks & back claiming there was no problem. Indeed there was no problem because they were going by 'old time' and the bus didn't leave for an hour...

Oct 21, 2008 - Mansehra(thru Kaghan Valley & Babusar Pass)

Up and breakfast of eggs, chapati, & tea...loaded the jeep - driver, Fidea, turns out to be the same fellow we met in Sost when we were trying to change $$ our first day in Pak!! Did not recognize him...very good driver & did a fine job securing bikes on the back for the journey up the mtn. Lft Chilas @ 10 am after a short stop at 'petroglyphs' - the road remained fully paved, new saphalt & width quite a distance up but then hit new construction. Again I must say this route goes thru some of the most spectacular mountain country, steep and...

Oct 20, 2008 - Chilas

Up about 7 tho been up several times to pee, a skiff of snow on the ground. Packed and went to mess blg for tea...later porridge & tea & chapati. Took parting pics, said goodbyes and off by 10:15 down the trail. At the trailhead about noon thirty(met Sue & Michael on their way up) we piled into the jeep to Raikot bridge arr by 2...said bye to Alam, Maqsood is continuing on w/ us. Along the way we saw/stopped to confirm w/ Andy & Tracy our mtg at Karakorum Inn in Chilas and arrangement for jeep. This route goes thru some of the most...

Oct 15, 2008 - Gilgit

Weather is variable...heavy rain overnite...we decide to press on to Gilgit. I went out at 8 to see about transport and streets were empty. We asked the owner and he said bus would leave in about an hour so we ordered breakfast...15 min later the driver came and said he was ready, we stuffed our faces and left w/o tea! Arr in Gilgit at 10:30(I found out later that Gilgit was on 'old time' ie not daylite savings, so it was really 7 when I went out, ha), a trip of just over an hour to Madina Guesthouse. Ralph was here and later Andy & Tracy...

Oct 9, 2008 - Karimabad

10-10- The manmade earthquake is causing the world to tremble and yet I sit here on this deck, overlooking a beautiful valley w/ huge snowcapped peaks all around & green, terraced gardens & fields below pondering the weirdness of it all. Here amidst a most earthquake prone area of the world, is peace and tranquility even as news reports war and terror all about us! Likewise, the economy seeming to crumble everywhere and here is quiet, serene. After 9/11 the tourist economy which had been booming(for very good reasons!) in this part of...

Oct 3, 2008 - Karimabad

10-3 Woke up fairly late(8) and after an egg, Hunza bread(very solid, somewhat sweet), butter & honey, & tea breakfast we headed up to see the Old House (700 yrs) which is very much the style of houses in Pamir/Wahkan. It is here that the Women’s weaving coop is situated the result of Threatnet Hunza program to ensure the continuation of traditional craftwork and give women a chance for indep income as well.. The items for sale were a bit too $$ for us but very beautiful. We were also able to see the mirs palace from the outside(being...

Oct 1, 2008 - Passu

10-1 Got going a bit late thinking we could eat at the Riviera Hotel(LP recom) but it is no longer having been taken over by Chinese. They are expanding the KKH (Karakoram Hwy) & redoing the entire length – 4 year project. We think the Chinese (from on the bus) are a part of the crews working on the highway. We checked around and found a fine breakfast at the PTDC Motel (govt run). Also took us awhile to get $$ changed, today being Eid, celebrating the last day of Ramadan. Also difficult finding transport on to Passu but again Asif offered...

Sep 30, 2008 - Sost, Pakistan

9-30 Drank lots of water & tea, managed to clear out my system before we left at 10 but still a headache. Ten min. away we get to customs, stamped out of China, gained a few passengers who replaced those who stayed, and headed out at noon Beijing time. At 14:15 B time we crossed over Khunjerab Pass(4100-4978 m. depending on your source). Very narrow canyon – rock slide in the way, we all disembarked and cleared the road. Arrived in Sost 17:30 B. time after coming thru a most beautiful canyon. Unfortunately, I did not enjoy it as much as B &...

Nov 28, 2007 - More Lahore

Back to the Regale Inn at Lahore, my favourite city in Pakistan, to sit out the week long wait for my Indian visa. I like Lahore because its one of Pakistan's more outward looking cities; its OK to walk around in jeans and a T-shirt here, and then there's food street and ice-cream street both of which I couldn't stay away from. Malik, being the well connected person that he is, has managed to obtain some complimentary tickets to an international music fesitval being held in Lahore. Its not as international as its billed as most performers...

Nov 26, 2007 - Islamabad

Back to Islamabad again, this time just to check on my Iranian visa application, and unfortunately I've only been granted a 7 day transit visa which is no good to me, so I've applied for an Indian visa and return to collect it in one weeks time. In the meantime I think I'll return to Lahore to sit out the 1 week processing time, and finish off my exploring of the city.

Nov 20, 2007 - Uch Sharif

I decided to take a short trip to Uch Sharif, which according to the Lonely Planet guidebook is worth a visit. I stayed at the nearby town of Bahawalpur at a flea-pit of a hotel. A tourist in this part of the world seems to be a novelty, so the hotel owner and staff and locals go out of their way to make a fuss of me. On day 2 I take a mini-bus to Uch Sharif, and a Pakistani on the bus informs me that "you are my guest' and takes me on a little tour of the mausoleums and mosques of Uch Sharif, then buys me lunch! Without him (unfortunately...